Bloomberg UK 2024 - Gem-Set and High Design Watches Have Found Their Time to Shine

Big brand watchmakers and auction houses alike are finding that customers want bold statement pieces as well as high complications.

The most imaginative timepieces to emerge from the April watch fairs in Geneva weren’t the historical tourbillons or perpetual calendars. Instead they were models with exciting design, including sculpted gold watches, ones adorned with gems in innovative settings and pieces decorated using traditional techniques known as métiers d’art.

In other words, jewelry watches.

Backes & Strauss’ Queen of Hearts Blue Velvet watch with 36 purple heart-shaped sapphires around the bezel

“There is a growing demand for more colored gemstones in high-end jewelry pieces,” says CEO Vartkess Knadjian. “Originally we worked with round-brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds, but now we’re using more colored gems and fancy cuts.”

And just who is asking for these gem-set pieces? “You would be surprised,” he says. “In some markets, women choose the bigger sizes we crafted for men. In general, I would say male clients are buying more gem pieces.”

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