Berkeley Renaissance Duke Tourbillon

‘The English watch brand Backes & Strauss is likely a new name for most readers. It is a London based, jewelry focused, watch brand that seems to focus more on the aesthetic aspect of luxury watches than the horological. We’ve looked at a couple of other Backes & Strauss models here on a blog to watch— the most recent of which was the Backes & Strauss Berkeley Renaissance 43 watch featured by Ariel.

Backes & Strauss recently released their newest addition to the Royal Collection with the Backes & Strauss Berkeley Renaissance Duke Tourbillon watch, featuring a double peripheral tourbillion (a first for the brand).

The Berkeley Renaissance Duke Tourbillon watch is available in two variations. The first features diamonds only on the tourbillon bridge and crown. The second called the Berkeley Renaissance Duke D2R features a total of 475 Ideal Cut diamonds totaling 6.48cts. These watches both will be housed in 43mm 18kt gold cases. The delicate white dials feature hand-polished roman numeral and indices. The movement is Backes and Strauss’ new double peripheral tourbillion that boasts a 46-hour power reserve and 208 white ideal cut diamonds on the bridges. Both versions of the Berkeley Renaissance Duke Tourbillon watch will be mounted on an alligator strap.

Analysis

To my eyes, these watches from Backes & Strauss have a very classic feeling to them. They remind me of a few different versions of the Cartier Tanks, but with some flares that are special to themselves. While they may lack some restraint when it comes to styling and materials, we need to keep in mind that the brand is primarily focused on these pieces functioning as jewelry.

One thing I would love to see is a steel option. I think that y retaining the diamonds and tourbillion, the brand would not have to sacrifice its focus on finery while opening up a more extensive color palette (and presumably accessible price point) for their audience.

Conclusion

The Backes & Strauss Berkeley Renaissance Duke Tourbillon will be available in two versions. The plain gold Berkeley Renaissance Duke, and the diamond-decorated Berkeley Renaissance Duke D2R. Backes & Strauss states that it is the world’s oldest diamond company dating back to 1789. Taking that into account, these new releases are right in line with what the brand represents. The Berkeley Renaissance Duke Tourbillon will be priced at CHF 115,000, while the Berkeley Renaissance Duke Tourbillon D2R will retail for CHF 150,000. ‘