Masters of Diamonds
since 1789
With over two hundred years of experience, Backes&Strauss know diamonds better than anyone else…

Backes & Strauss are known for quality and craftsmanship and as their long heritage demands only the best diamonds are used. The clean clarity of the diamonds used here are the extremely rare Flawless / V V S + with the near perfect colour collection F+. From 58 up to 62% of the uncut stone is sacrificed to achieve such perfection of a Backes & Strauss diamond. According to the GIA - Gemological Institute of America - less than 3% of all diamonds are cut to these ideal proportions.

The twin test

Backes & Strauss


The most beautiful objects in art and nature are often symmetrical,
and so it is with Backes & Strauss diamonds.

Hearts and Arrows

The proof of Backes & Strauss’s expertise in diamond cutting is the Hearts and Arrows pattern shown by each Backes & Strauss diamond when viewed with a special instrument called ‘Hearts and Arrows viewer’. The pattern is a series of eight arrowheads when viewed from above the crown with one eye and eight heart shapes when viewed from below the pavilion. The Hearts & Arrow viewer (included in each Backes & Strauss watch box) is merciless when it comes to detecting any deviation from perfection.

Hearts and Arrows diamonds are the ultimate, most magnificient and brilliant Ideal Cut diamonds. The team of expert diamond cutters and polishers at Backes & Strauss takes extensive care to manually polish each diamond to perfection, a skill they have refined in over 200 years of the company existence. Each natural diamond is planned, cut and polished in an effort that requires hundreds of hours of meticulous work. Almost 50% of the rough diamond is lost in the achievement of the perfectly polished symmetrical Backes & Strauss diamond.

The Diamond Theme

Runs through each Watch Element    

Backes & Strauss developed a unique dial design, as Masters of Diamonds the dial is therefore diamond stamped. Each numeral and index is polished and set by hand, as are the diamonds on each Backes & Strauss timepiece. The pyramids which are placed on the dial's inner circle mark the seconds (five by five). They are a pyramid shape in homage to a polished diamond. Perfect reasons for perfected details.

The Jewel in the Crown

Every watch has at least one diamond, set into the crown by hand; it is the Backes & Strauss signature “The Jewel in the Crown” which is designed to look like the pavilion of a diamond. The pavilion is the lower portion of the diamond, below the girdle, sometimes referred to as the base.

The 4 C’s of Diamonds


Diamond Colour Actually Means Lack of Colour.

The diamond colour evaluation of most gem-quality diamonds is based on the absence of colour. A chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond has no hue, like a drop of pure water, and consequently, a higher value.


Scaling from D-Z, the colour band of diamonds move alphabetically from colourless through to an increasing presence of colour.

Backes & Strauss’ only uses the finest diamonds on its timepieces, with colour no lower than F.


Diamond Clarity Refers to the Absence of Inclusions and Blemishes

Natural diamonds are the result of carbon exposed to tremendous heat and pressure deep in the earth. This process can result in a variety of internal characteristics called 'inclusions' and external characteristics called 'blemishes'.


The regularity, size, nature, and position of these characteristics is considered and graded on a scale of F (Flawless) to I3.


Diamonds and other gemstones are weighed in metric carats: one carat is equal to 0.2 grams not to be confused with karat, as in “18K gold,” which refers to gold purity. A carat is divided into 100 points.


For example, a 50-point diamond weighs 0.50 carats. But two diamonds of equal weight can have very different values depending on the other members of the Four C’s: clarity, colour and cut.


The beauty of a diamond lies in its brilliance (reflection of light falling on it) and is fire (splitting of white light into rainbow colours). Maximum fire and brilliance can be obtained by cutting a diamond according to a set of specifications, called the Ideal Cut, creating the most beautiful diamond. The proof of an Ideal Cut is the Hearts & Arrows pattern shown by the diamond when viewed 

with a special instrument called ‘Hearts and Arrows viewer’.The pattern is a series of eight arrowheads when viewed from above and eight heart shapes when viewed from below. Diamonds which show this pattern flawlessly have excellent symmetry and proportions, and are categorised as Ideal Cut.